Development and Application of Computer Jacquard Knitted Fabrics for Sportswear

Computer jacquard machine has been used for quite a long time in the history of the textile industry. In the early days, it was mainly used to show fabric patterns. However, computer jacquard machine has a minimum repeat which provides the width and height of patterns, and is able to meet the characteristics of the entire body. Therefore, apart from showing fabric patterns, it can also use for other purposes. Yet,

the key lies in having both the knowledge of the machine and fabric design-related expertise!

In recent years, the core capabilities of Taiwan’s textile industry has shifted from fashion trends in the early days to performance textiles, thereby leading to the use of computer jacquard machines, which was originally used to show fabric patterns, and was later extended to the concept of body mapping design required for sportswear. The most original concept of body mapping design originates from the non-uniformity of heat loss mechanisms in the human body. For sports or outdoor fabrics, changes in fabric composition have to be made to single bodies in order to meet the heat loss and insulation requirements needed for sweating map and thermal map. On the other hand, the minimum repeat of computer jacquard knitted fabric patterns can satisfy the entire body; therefore, it is quite suitable for the design of body mapping.

Many knitted fabric manufacturers in Taiwan combine computer jacquard fabrics and the concept of body mapping design, and use this combination in sportswear, and one of these manufacturers is Eclat Textile Co., Ltd., which is a representative enterprise specializing in the production of flexible performance knitted fabrics and apparel. During the 2018 Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show, Eclat Textile Co., Ltd. not only applied computer jacquard knitted fabrics to the body mapping design for sportswear, but also transformed the original computer jacquard knitted fabric function (air permeable pores) into fashion design under the trend of combining functionality with fashion, creating extremely creative fabric designs in the process!

AerojaqTM enables the design of different pore sizes on the same fabric for perspiration levels at different body parts

The AerojaqTM single-sided computer jacquard technology focuses on lightweight and breathability, and uses one-way moisture transfer fabric design to transfer moisture to the outer layer and remove moisture from the body, thereby achieving the function of moisture management. AerojaqTM enables the design of different pore sizes on the same fabric for perspiration levels at different body parts based on the concept of body mapping design, thereby creating breathable and fashionable fabrics.

In addition, Eclat Textile Co., Ltd. uses pores for ventilation purposes to design irregular twist patterns through fabric design . Pores in this type of fabric do not look as obvious as those in general performance breathable fabrics, thereby making apparel functional and fashionable at the same time.

AeroaqTM transforms the original design of breathable pores into fashionable irregular twist design

CrossjaqTM is another jacquard knitted fabric developed by Eclat Textile Co., Ltd. using rib jacquard knitting machine, where single layers are interlaced with double layers onto a piece of fabric, so that the surface of the fabric comprises the touch and change of three-dimensional texture. The inner part of the fabric is smoother than general computer jacquard fabrics, such that the wearer feels comfortable with a foreign body sensation.

The texture of CrossjaqTM fabrics appears more three-dimensional

電腦提花針織布於運動服飾的開發及應用

電腦提花機應用於紡織產業的歷史已相當悠久，早期主要用於表現布料圖案之用，但電腦提花機設備具有提供圖案之寬度與高度的最小循環（repeat），而能夠滿足整身片的特點，因此除了表現布料圖案之用，也能夠進行其他應用，

但關鍵在於是否兼具機器設備知識與相關織物設計的專業！

近年來由於台灣紡織業的核心能量，已由早期的時尚流行盤，轉換至機能性紡織品，也促使電腦提花機的應用，由原本作為表現織物的圖案，擴大應用至運動服飾所需的Body Mapping設計概念。Body Mapping 最原始的設計概念，是因人體散熱機制為非均勻性的呈現，而運動或戶外用布料為符合身體流汗地圖（sweating map）和保暖地圖（thermal map）所需的散熱與保暖需求，需在單一身片上進行不同布料組織的變化，而電腦提花針織布圖樣最小循環（repeat）能滿足整身片，因此相當適合應用於Body Mapping的設計。

台灣有不少針織布廠透過將電腦提花布結合Body Mapping設計的概念，將之應用於運動服飾上，代表廠商之一為儒鴻企業，其為專業生產彈性機能性針織布料和服裝的代表性企業，其在TITAS 2018的展會上，不僅將電腦提花針織布應用於運動服飾的Body Mapping設計，且在機能結合時尚的趨勢下，反過來將原本電腦提花針織布的機能（透氣的孔洞）轉化為時尚設計，織物設計創意十足！

AerojaqTM單面電腦提花技術主打布料的輕量化與透氣性，運用單向導濕的織物結構設計，將身體的濕氣傳遞到外層進而排出體外，而達到濕度管理的機能。AerojaqTM可以根據Body-mapping設計概念，針對身體不同部位的排汗程度，在同塊布上設計不同的孔洞大小，使布料具有透氣性且兼具設計感。

此外，儒鴻企業透過織物設計，將原本用於透氣機能的孔洞，透過織物設計成不規則的麻花形式，不像一般機能性透氣布料透氣孔洞看起來這麼明顯，使服裝兼具機能與時尚感。

儒鴻企業開發的另一款提花針織布CrossjaqTM採用羅紋移針織機，將單層跟雙層不同的組織交織成一塊布，使布面具有3D立體紋路的觸感與變化（在內裏的部分相較於一般的電腦緹花布更平順，讓穿著起來舒適不會有異物感。